Come with me into the graveyard, all human life is here

Month: November 2025

WH Smith, Newsagent, Bookseller, Stationer.

In my childhood, in the 1950s and 1960s, WH Smith was an essential presence on every high street. It supplied some of my favourite items: books, comics, stationery. And in Chester the shop itself had a romantic allure. Housed in a black and white, half timbered, mock Tudor building, it advertised its presence only with a swinging sign suspended from ornate iron brackets and discreet lettering above the entrance.

Foregate Street, Chester, in the 1950s, WH Smith is housed in the black and white building on the right hand side
Old poster advertising the shop

The lettering, designed by Eric Gill in 1903, was common to all branches of WH Smith at the time, and the hanging sign featured at many branches. Designed by Septimus E Scott in 1905 these signs were usually made of enamelled steel and featured a newsboy brandishing a newspaper with a tray of books and papers in a basket. Some branches had “boy lanterns” where the image was on glass illuminated from within.

Swinging sign designed by Septimus E Scott
“Boy lanterns” were illuminated from within

In Chester newspapers, magazines and comics occupied the front of the shop, an enticing display spread across a huge counter, the smell of warm printers’ ink hanging in the air above, competing with a chilly blast coming in from the street, for during working hours the shop front stood completely open, and it is winter in my memory.

Deeper inside the shop behind swing doors was the cosy stationery department: a wellspring of fountain pens, Quink ink, pencils graded from 9B through HB to 9H, crayons, pencil sharpeners and rubbers, rulers and protractors, pencil cases, and notebooks. Basildon Bond writing paper and envelopes jostled for space with the more exotic airmail stationery, tissue thin with blue and red borders, and the severe brown envelopes favoured by businesses.

But the greatest delight lay at the top of the broad, creaking L-shaped stair whose dark timbers clung to the panelled walls and whose banister gleamed with polish. For this led to a room where leaded lights in mullioned frames punctuated the panelling, and shelves and tables overflowed with books. Here hardcovers held sway, and it required several months pocket money or a birthday windfall to effect a purchase from the generously stocked children’s section. But I could browse for hours undisturbed, benefitting from the dappled light which discouraged older eyes.

The truth is that though nicely bound and with attractive dust jackets the quality of the literature was not always high; librarians and teachers would have disapproved of the complete set of Enid Blyton’s Mallory Towers stories which I coveted. But from its beginnings WHSmith had catered without pretension for popular taste alongside respectable literature.

Henry Walden Smith and his wife Anna had established a newsvendors shop in London just before their son was born in 1792. Anna’s husband died when their son was only a few weeks old, but she continued the business and the son, William Henry (1792-1865) duly took over, renaming the shop WH Smith.

William Henry expanded the business and began sending London newspapers to rural towns by mail coach. He invented Smith’s Peculiar Slipknot which enabled packers to draw the string around the newspaper parcels as tightly as if it had been done by machinery. Every morning at 5am he would be outside his shop in the Strand, in his shirt sleeves, sorting and tying, priding himself on being the quickest packer.

Sometimes there was a delay in the publication of newspapers, and the mail coach would leave without them. William Henry built a light cart with fast horses and employed drivers to pursue the Mail when this happened. When news broke after publication, he sent messengers on horseback carrying printed slips with updates for customers in provincial towns.

Newspapers carried a stamp duty and were expensive. In 1821 William Henry opened a Reading Room at his premises in the Strand where for a daily fee “gentlemen” were invited to read the news more cheaply.

The second William Henry (1825-1891) joined his father in the business just as the railways began to supplant the mail coaches. Unregulated stalls had mushroomed at railway stations selling buns, books, and beverages, often of dubious quality. To raise the standard, and their own income, railway directors invited tenders for holding official stalls. William Henry’s bid was successful; he obtained the exclusive right to sell books and newspapers on the London and Northwestern Company’s stations and established his first stall at Euston in 1848. In 1850 he opened stalls on platforms in Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool. As the railways expanded so did his business. By 1862 he had a monopoly with stalls on the stations of every railway company in England.

He moved into publishing, producing the “railway novels,” also known as “yellow backs,” * or “mustard plaster novels.” These cheap books bound in yellow board covers, with adverts at the back helping to cut production costs, were the precursors of paperbacks. They covered popular genres of crime, suspense, and romance, undemanding literature suitable for wiling away a train journey, although there were also cheap reprints of Dickens and Shakespeare.

William Henry began lending books from his railway stalls; for a small fee books could be borrowed at one station and returned at another. A circulating library in the Strand followed.

Meanwhile he had benefitted from the abolition of stamp duty on newspapers and from his position as the sole distributor of the Times as circulation increased during the Crimean war.

William Henry had never employed workers on Sundays or distributed Sunday newspapers, but he made an exception when the list of killed and wounded at the Battle of Alma came through late on a Saturday night. On the Sunday morning, he opened his railway bookstalls to allow soldiers’ relatives to check the lists.

His son, William Frederick Danvers Smith (1868-1928), inherited the business and was responsible for the proliferation of high street stores in the early twentieth century. From 1905 the railway companies had demanded higher rents for the station stalls. So, William Frederick moved the focus of the business to shops, often located on approaches to the station to capture the passenger trade. Circulating libraries operated within the shops.

These were the shops that were still flourishing in the 1950s and 1960s although by then most of the circulating libraries had gone, rendered obsolete by the growth of public libraries. It was during this time that the statistician Gordon Foster, hired by the firm, originated the nine-digit code for referencing books which became accepted as the International Standard Book Numbering, ISBN, in 1970.

But in the 1970s, though still successful businesses, the shops began to lose their unique character as they were modernised. In many towns this meant plate glass, crude signage, and cheap fittings. As a listed building the exterior of the Chester branch was protected, but inside the beautiful staircase was ripped out to make more floor space, the panelling disappeared, the newspapers were removed from their glorious display area and shunted into a corner of the airless new shop floor, and the book room was lost to storage.

Yet in one branch, at Newtown in Powys, something special happened. For here instead of being updated the shop was restored to its appearance when it had first opened in 1927, with a small museum upstairs where the former circulating library had been. Tiles, light fittings, and oak shelving emerged from storage, and although not housed in such an attractive building, the shop in Newtown had the same old-world charm that I remembered in the Chester store.

Exterior: WH Smith, Newtown, Powys
Newspapers and magazines
Tiles adorned the outside of the shop
External lights

But from the late twentieth century onwards WHSmith, faced with competition from budget shops, supermarkets and online traders, became run down and shabby. The quality of merchandise declined. In February 2025, all the high street stores were sold to the private equity firm Modella capital. Some remain open, fictitiously renamed TG Jones, to give the false impression that it is still a family business. Other branches have been closed, including, in an act of supreme vandalism, the Newtown shop, where the delightful old fixtures and fittings have been removed and the building is on the market as a “development opportunity.”

RIP WHSmith

WH Smith, Family Tomb, Kensal Rise
WH Smith and his descendants lie appropriately beneath a tomb with an open book on top

*Not to be confused with the French yellow novels of the 1890s. WH Smith had a puritanical streak, and nothing salacious reached his bookstalls.

To appreciate what has been lost with the closure of the Newtown shop see, The WH Smith Museum: Hidden Gem in Newtown, Powys. H18-PDW

Battlefield Crosses: Returned From The Front

Amid the stone grave markers and memorials which flank the cloister of Salisbury Cathedral are seven wooden crosses.

Towards the end of the First World War, The War Graves Commission began to replace the wooden markers, which soldiers had fashioned for the graves of their comrades, with permanent memorials of Portland stone. The original battlefield crosses were offered to the fallen soldiers’ next of kin. But since few people could afford the cost of collecting or shipping the crosses home the majority were burned and the ashes scattered over the burial grounds. The crosses in Salisbury Cathedral were amongst the 10,000 which were returned from the front.

This cross marked the place where
Lt. JPM Carpenter,
Son of the Archdeacon of Sarum, was killed
Near Flers at the Battle of the Somme and
Was afterwards moved to his grave in
Bullecourt cemetery.
This cross marked the grave in Cairo cemetery of
Captn. Charles Basil Mortimer Hodgson
3rd Queens Royal West Surrey Regt.
Died in hospital in Cairo April 1st. 1918
Of wounds received in Palestine.
Husband of Mary Alice Carpenter,
Daughter of the Archdeacon of Sarum
This cross
Marked the grave in Port Said cemetery of
Cap. Christopher Ken Merewether
Who died in hospital at Port Said Dec. 20th 1917
Of wounds received in action in Palestine
Aged 27
Only child of Canon Wyndham AS Merewether
This cross was placed over the grave of
Colonel Frank A Symons C.M.G
D.S.O: M-B: Army Medical Service
Who was killed in action at Athies April 30th 1917
Buried in Saint Nicholas cemetery, Arras, May 1st
This cross marked the resting place
In Belgium, of
No. 318 Gnr. GAK Buskin
1st. Field Artillery Brigade
Australian Imperial Force
Killed in action 3rd November 1917
This cross marked the grave in the
Military cemetery, Caudry, France of
Capt. Guy Dodgson, Herts. Regt., who died
Of wounds in casualty station, Nov. 14th. 1918
Youngest son of the late Henley F Hodgson
And Mrs. Hamilton Fulton
Capt. Francis (Toby) Dodgson (brother of Guy Dodgson)
This cross is a replica of the battlefield cross which marked the spot where Toby fell at
CONTALMAISON – BATTLE OF THE SOMME
10 July 1916
The original cross was stolen from these cloisters in 2015

Typically, the crosses were entrusted to Cathedrals and parish churches. There are collections at Melton Old Church in Suffolk* and at Saint Peter and Paul, Deddington in Oxfordshire**. In Cheltenham two hundred and thirty crosses were placed in Soldiers Corner in the Bouncers Lane cemetery, where, one hundred years on, 90% of them had disintegrated. The remaining twenty-three were rescued and a small museum opened   to house them in a former gravediggers’ hut in 2024. ***

At Saint Andrews, Mells in Somerset, a very grand memorial to Edward Horner incorporates his cross into a plinth designed by Lutyens bearing a bronze sculpture conceived by Munnings.

Memorial to Edward Horner, St. Andrews, Mells. Bronze by Munnings, plinth by Lutyens, text by Gill.
The cross is fixed into the back of the plinth

With characteristic sensitivity, Fabian Ware, founder of the War Graves Commission, brought home a cross which had marked the grave of “an unknown British soldier” and gifted it to his parish church at Amberley in Gloucestershire.

Cross which marked the grave of an unknown British soldier, now in Amberley church, Gloucestershire

At first, I mistook the wooden marker housed in St. Bartholomew’s church at Orford Ness in Suffolk for another of the battlefield crosses, but then I read the inscription,

Hier ruht
in
Gott
P.O.W.
Josef Obert

Josef Obert was one of thirteen German Prisoners of War in Orford who died in the influenza epidemic of 1918 less than three weeks after the Armistice. He was buried in the churchyard with the other POWs and in the 1960s they were re-interred when the Cannock Chase German Military Cemetery was established in Staffordshire.

In 2014 Obert’s original grave marker was found in the sexton’s shed and placed on the church wall. A biographical note records that he was born in 1891, the illegitimate child of Anna Obert, and was present at Verdun and the Somme before being listed as missing in combat. He was unmarried and had no children. The bleak little notice and Obert’s wooden cross record the same tragedy as the British crosses: the heartache of a life barely begun, curtailed by a too early death.

 *     https://meltonoldchurch.co.uk >world-war-1-crosses 

**    https://www.deddingtonhistory.uk >world wars

***  https://cheltenham-battlefield-crosses.org

See also https://thereturned.co.uk Returned from the Front is a project seeking to provide a definitive list of all extant World War I crosses and grave markers, their location and information about those whose graves they marked. 

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